The last posted TGIF ended with -
As of today, the wireless problem
remains. This is a twofold problem. First, while in the field, how to
wirelessly transfer images from camera to IPad. Secondly, how, while in the
field, to wirelessly obtain "live view". That is, showing the image
on a IPad immediately after capture without removing the card from the camera.
The answer to these questions may be
at the front door. UPS just dropped off a package. Check back next TGIF.
Well - turns out that the answer
wasn't at the front door. The contents
of the package, while interesting and useful, didn't solve the wireless
problem.
Attempting to solve this problem has
been the past weeks full time task for the Today's Image staff. So far
no/nada/zip solutions. Time to back away, have more coffee and return to
looking out the window. The answer is out there - just have to find it.
With the exception of
"wireless" the photography equipment questions are resolved. Time to
begin thinking about photographing people. Rather than producing formal portraits, would
attempt to present people within their location. Such environmental portraits
not only show an individual or group, but also their surroundings.
While waiting for a "wireless" solution to appear, the next bit of time will be spent reviewing past work involving people, as well as posting new work.
5 comments:
Looks like your off to a good start. I'm fighting my own dilemma's with analog.
People-for the most part are not a problem. Seem to conect with most folks. Just want to be certain that I can give them something in return for their time in front of a camera.
Analog problems? Tell me - perhaps could help.
The furniture market is in town & I want to shoot some street scenes & I'm being intimidated by the camera's meter in my rangefinder. I'm shooting Tri-X @ 400 & set my lens to get a dof of 7ft. to infinity at around f8. I'm going from a shutter speed of 250 in shade to 500 in bright sunlight. I'm thinking I should ignore what my meter is telling me. What I'm wondering is will my film develop ok? At least from tutorials I have read it should. Perhaps I should pull the batteries out. Anyhow right now I'm confused. You probably are too by reading this. Well maybe not. Thanks.
A shutter speed from 250 to 500 is only a difference of one f-stop. Tri-X is a very forgiving flim and a one stop difference shouldn't cause trouble. Couple of things to do. Assuming shade and sunlight remain the same pick a shutter speed and change the lens opening. 250 @ f8 (shade) and 500 @ f8 (sunlight) could be changed to - say - 250 @ between f8 and f11. Moved 1/2 an f stop. Shade negative will be a bit thin and the sunlight negative a bit darker. Because it's Tri-X should print/scan ok.
OK thanks. Thats pretty much the way I was shooting Saturday. I got intimidated by the meter & it did have me worrying & a bit unsure I was OK on my exposures. I have read that Tri-X is a pretty forgiving film but I haven't shot enough to know it's full capabilities yet. So good for you to chime in & give me some reassurance & pointers to follow up on. I'll go back over today to finish the roll.
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